Usually it would be a bit early to start thinking about the next Autumn/Winter season. That is, if it wasn’t for the hype around a late 2012 cinema release of the latest adaptation of F Scott Fitzgerald’s novel, The Great Gatsby. That trademark look of the mid-1920′s, with sleek bobbed hair, red lips and pale & interesting skin tones, couldn’t have come sooner for those eager to backlash against the rise of fake tan and hair extensions. As the beauty pages of fashion mags around the world explode with flapper-glamour, we thought we’d do some research to see how they did it back in the day.

You could be forgiven for thinking that getting an undercut is about the most contemporary thing you could do. Well it pretty much is, but that doesn’t make it original… By piecing together traditional barbering techniques used in 1920′s hairdressing and combining them with contemporary methods, we’ve taken the iconic look of the early 20th Century and updated it for the 21st… With a combination of old-skool clipper cutting and contemporary scissor work, we’ve created a look that will hold it’s shape, almost without styling and a hemline that swings like the Charleston!

Our full-length step-by-step tutorial movie showing you how to create this classic cut is:
Available for download here.

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Concept/Photography/Hair: Neil North MA.
Make-up: Cornelia Page.
Model: Stella S @ totalRestyle.

© Neil North & totalRestyle.com (All rights reserved.)

Ever wished that you could transform yourself like an xmas party superhero – from chic corporate goddess to wickedly wayward party vamp with a few spritzes of hairspray in the office toilets? Our next tutorial movie features presenter/model Zoe going for the ultimate in versatile holiday-season party hair… Clever graduation allows this classic A-line shape to be worn sleek & chic as well as wonderfully wild. The secret lies in the subtly powerful graduation that defines this haircut. The clever part is packing all of that fabulous graduation in, without compromising the quintessential concave-bob outline. A great staple for advanced students and graduates to learn, for those clients who want a strong, classic cut with superhero tendencies. The full ‘Quick-Change Bob’ tutorial movie is now available to download.

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Concept/Photography/Hair: Neil North MA.
Assisted by: Justin Van Wade.
Make-up: Cornelia Page.
Model: Zoe @ totalRestyle.

© Neil North & totalRestyle.com (All rights reserved.)

Remember Ellen from our first video tutorial release? Well, we hooked up again recently to plan an Autumn/Winter update of her look. This time with a bit more ‘edge.’

Model Makeovers…
Last month we sent out 100 invitations to aspiring models and agency new-faces. Offering a completely new look that would be tailored specifically to accentuate their face-shape, features and personality. Our challenge was to create not only a new look, but to develop a totally new professional image for our chosen girls… No pressure then! Just as well we’ve done this kind of thing before. Out of the 100 girls invited to make an application, almost all responded, making the job of selecting the final 10 candidates even more tricky… So who are the lucky 10? Well, you’ll just have to wait and see, but I am delighted to introduce our first model… Ellen, a new-face and classical vocalist from West London won us over with her commercial look, creative background and fantastic profile.

Ellen’s transformation…
We wanted a look that was going to make Ellen stand out from the crowd and highlight her classically commercial beauty. I also felt that it was important to reflect her creative personality with the new look, so I wanted to produce a haircut that had a little bit of quirkiness and individuality – A look that Ellen could make her own, both personally and professionally. When I suggested to her that we chop all her long hair off, Ellen was really positive about it (having had her hair cut short previously.) It takes a great deal of courage and trust for a model to cut so much hair off, so it’s always vitally important from a stylist’s perspective to get the final shape just right for the individual. In Ellen’s case, her bone-structure and hair type were just perfect for a close-crop and when we realised that she also had the right attitude to pull it off, we just had to go for it!

The Technique…
The key to ultra-feminine, super-short hair is texture, texture, texture. There literally isn’t a single straight line in this haircut. Every tiny section is chipped into and shattered through, even where the hair is less than a centimeter long, it still retains a feminine softness. This texture is created by free-hand razor cutting and by cutting the longer sections in a criss-cross pattern, effectively adding double the texture when point-cutting the tips of the hair. Finally the top sections are sliced through, again using a free-hand technique, to create a soft kick to the root sections. Shaping the hair in this way allows Ellen’s own natural waves to create movement in the new cut. Ultimately producing a look which is very easy to manage and will retain a flattering shape as it grows out.

A special-feature movie of Ellen’s makeover with step-by-step tuition for stylists is now available for download on our video page.

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Model: Ellen.
Hair: Neil North MA. / Make-up: Maiju Emilia.
Photography: © Neil North & totalRestyle.com (All rights reserved.)
Additional Retouching & Digital Artwork: Neil North MA.

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Concept: Neil North MA., Maria Mattola & Krista Mäenpää.
Hair: Neil North MA. / Make-up: Krista Mäenpää.
Assisted by: Emilia Outila.
Photography: © Neil North & totalRestyle.com (All rights reserved.)
Additional Retouching & Digital Artwork: Neil North MA.

Are we finally out of winter? At least in London things are looking brighter and one look that seems to be firmly on track for the AW/SS 11 transition is short and asymmetrical. Variations on the bob/crop (should that be ‘brop’ or ‘crob!’) do seem to dive into and out of trend every 10 years or so and this time it’s huge in the UK. Some fashion commentators have linked the move towards more structured geometry in hair with the recent economic problems faced by many… Suggesting that austerity of lifestyle could be creating a shift towards a more austere personal look. What do you think? I personally feel that the point has been missed – Sure, times aren’t great for most people, but maybe that helps us to re-evaluate and re-structure our lives and our looks. The new short geometric haircuts might have emerged from a change of attitude to daily life, but I personally see it as a positive move forward. Ok, so maybe it is true that the majority of people aren’t feeling quite so carefree and romantic at the moment, but what could feel fresher and more empowering than trading free-flowing bohemian locks for a clean, crisp, geometric cut? (just think back to the 1920′s.) Looking good and feeling good is all part of moving positively forward… Maybe that’s also why cosmetic sales generally increase during a recession.

Tips for making it work for you…
1# Go to a stylist you trust and get it cut well! The cut is everything with this look.

2# The look is about having a jaw-length bob with one side cut away short around the ear… So the first step is to decide on which side you want to part you hair. Once its cut, you’ll have to live with it until it grows out. (A good stylist will be happy to give you a full consultation about this.)

3# The biggest mistake is cutting too much off of the back. The back of your hair should be gently tapered in behind the ear on your short side, but the back should be more bob than crop… To retain balance in the cut, it should be a bob with a short blended side section, rather than a cropped haircut with one side left long… You see my point!

4# Styling – If this look is cut well it should just fall into place naturally, so a quick blast with a hairdryer is usually all you’ll need. (Head upside down for maximum root lift.) Add some soft wax and spritz with a light hairspray for texture or sleek it with serum for a chic & shiny evening look.

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Photography: ©Mayer George Vladimirovich